Is anybody familiar with this bike? I'm wondering if it's worth it.... I've got an opportunity to get one for $675. But that's still about $500 more than I've ever spent on a bike before.

I need something that is compact because I'm a truck driver and will be storing it in the passenger side floorboard.

Uh....what bike?

I've got 6 bikes. I've got a Dahon folding bike that folds up and fits in a suitcase. Is that something like what you're looking for?

http://www.montaguebikes.com/paratrooper-folding-military-bike.html

That is the one I am offered the deal on. It's a Paratrooper Montague.

I was looking at Dahons. But anything that I liked was WAY out of my price range.

TBH. Even this one is pretty pricey to me. But, then again I was looking at these on eBay and they seem to hold value pretty well.

The folded size is about 4-5" longer and taller than a dahon, or comparable 20" wheel bike, but that's not too bad considering it has 26" wheels. The components seem to be good quality for the price. Plus you can use it for recon missions (according to the website). I've seen guys riding these on century rides, once they changed out the tires to something with a little less knobby tread.

If the fold up size fits your needs then I would say go for it. If you want smaller, there are alot of used Dahons on eBay. I have the P8. The boardwalk is another good all around bike.

Honestly, the best bike is the one you will ride regularly. I noticed last night the Academy near me is selling mountain bike shorts with the crotch pad (chamois). If you are gonna ride more than 5 miles at a time, it's a great investment.

I think the first thing I'll be looking at is a different seat. I bought a much less expensive bike a few years ago, I think I rode it maybe 1/2 mile and my butt was killing me.

Do you know anything about the Dahon Espresso? It seems to be in the same price range and looks like its more of a road bike than an off road.

I don't know much about the espresso, but just a quick look at the Dahon website tells me that it doesn't have as good of components as the first bike you linked. The disc breaks are the first thing that jumps out at me, that's a huge bump up. Also the front suspension will be nice if you ever ride it on a bike trail.

If you want something more in line with a road tire, but not too skinny, this is my absolute favorite tire...

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=40164&category=3045

The 1.50 width will be a little faster rolling, the 1.75 will be a little cushier. It is almost impossible to have a flat with these tires.

As for seat pain, good shorts will go farther than a good seat. I like to use a generous amount of baby powder in my shorts while I ride. That helps a ton. Also, seat adjustment plays a big role. If my seat is adjusted nose down or nose up even the slightest, it's uncomfortable. Everybody likes their seat adjusted differently, but if it isn't comfortable, start playing with the adjustment in tiny increments until it feels better. There is also a fore and aft adjustment. Usually I like mine pushed all the way back, but again, everybody's butt likes different things. Play with the different positions. As for seat height, you should be able to put your heel on the pedal and just lock your knee, that's ideal.

If you do buy a new seat remember that shape is more important than cushion. It's not how comfortable a seat is when you first sit on it, it's how comfortable the seat is after an hour of riding. Soft cushion tends to compress over time and then you're just sitting on the seat pan. A firm seat will hold you longer. I'm sure you get that, being a truck driver.

I'm sure that's more info than you wanted to know.... I could go on about bikes all day.

BTW....Brooks seats are the most comfortable seats ever made, and best looking in my opinion. They have been around for over a century. People who ride their bikes from coast to coast ride on Brooks.

I really appreciate you taking the time to respond and look at these for me.

No such thing as TMI for me. I'm a sponge, & I'm very cautious on how I spend money.

I like to be as well informed as I possibly can be before I make any kind of investment.

I'm a huge believer in you get what you pay for only to a certain point. Then you're paying for a name, or the law of diminishing returns kicks in.

I really want to be on that line where I'm gettinthe best experience I can without paying extra for a name.

I'm pretty mechaniclly inclined, but have never had much luck adjusting the linkage on multi gear bikes. Is it easier on higher end bikes or should I just pay a bike shop to do it for me

It's not really easier on higher end bikes, no. Setting up the derailleurs is a matter of getting the shifter cable tension right, and then setting the limit screws. The limit screws keep your chain from shifting past the inner or outer chain ring on the front and back. Once they're set the first time, you will probably never have to think about them again if they are set properly. Shifter cable tension is what allows the chain to shift to each chain ring every time you hit the shifter. Too tight or too loose and it won't shift properly. A brand new bike with new cables, the cables will stretch after a short time. So often times after the cable tension is set, it will have to be tightened again after a few break in miles. But after that initial stretch, it will usually hold and not be an issue again until the cable starts getting worn. This secondary adjustment is not difficult to do. If you have barrel adjusters on your shifter cables it's a 5 second job. If not, it's 2 minutes. I can't tell from the photos if that bike has them, but if not a bike shop can install them for you and they are cheap.

"Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance" is the best bicycle maintenance book I know of. It reads like a Haynes auto maintenance manual. Easy step by step instructions on how to do everything, with pictures. If you can follow that you can do the setup yourself easily. If you'd rather, a good bike shop can do the initial setup and it shouldn't be a big expense, probably $25-$35.

After that, the best things you can do for your bike are keep the chain lubed with a good dry lube (not oil and not WD40), keep your tires aired up to the max pressure, and make sure your spoke tension stays tight. The spokes on the rear wheel, right side are the ones that will eventually become slack and then break.

And you are right about diminishing returns. In bicycles, after a while they don't get any better, just lighter. Everybody wants lighter bikes, and they pay through the nose for it. My boss actually bought some new handlebars for his road bike because they were 100 grams lighter than his old ones. That's 3 ounces. Kinda silly when he could stand to lose 75 pounds himself.

Any other questions, don't hesitate. As you can see I don't mind talking about bikes.